Review of a chapter from “Cooked-A Natural History of Transformation” Pt.2

As Michael Pollan takes us through his sourdough bread odyssey in the third chapter of his book “Cooked”,  he intersperses his descriptions with historical information and a layman’s explanation of what is happening on the microbiological level.  It is a very reader friendly account of the process.  Those of us who have felt the apprehension of making our first loaf of sourdough bread can relate to his getting “mentally prepared” for the work.  For most, it is an endeavor that is anticipated to yield mediocre results at best and utter failure at worst.   He is certainly not expecting to come up with a prize winning loaf of bread the first time around.  For those who are interested,  the role of wild yeast (and bacteria) in creating a sourdough culture is explained in a way that doesn’t remind one of a science textbook.   Much of what exactly goes on in the starter and in dough is still a mystery to the scientists.  But if you ever wondered about what makes homegrown yeast special compared to the commercially made variety,  or how the mixture of four disparate bread ingredients transforms into a  smooth elastic aromatic dough and eventually into the extraordinary final product,  then here is a nice and easy readable place to find out.  For example,  he cites a 1971 study by the USDA entitled “Microorganisms of the San Francisco Sour Dough French Bread Process”.   The team found that no single yeast type was responsible for the success of the sourdough culture.  Instead it is a complex collaboration between a yeast and a bacteria which forms a kind of micro ecosystem  where the microorganisms benefit from the other’s coexistence.  To date, about 20 different yeasts and 50 different bacteria have been found in sourdough cultures around the world.  Commercially made yeast on the other hand doesn’t do well in a sourdough type of environment, so complex relationships aren’t allowed to flourish.  Its predictability anywhere in the world makes it well suited for mass production of products though it will never extract the depth of flavor and quality that is inherent in wheat.  After reading the section on sourdough starters,  I gained a better appreciation of the fact that the way bakers take care of their sourdough culture affects the quality and characteristics of the final result.  Ambient temperature,  food,  amount of water, and feeding schedule all determine the environment of the “micro universe” of the starter.   Though the author gets into some biological detail he always seems to be primarily concerned with sharing information that helps the reader understand the bread making process.

What is also appealing and useful about the writing style is that as Pollan takes us through the method,  he fully explains the purpose of each of the techniques.  He also describes the visual cues the baker should be looking for,  what the material should feel like, and what aromas should be detected.   Very few books on bread making that I have seen are as thorough in their presentation.  After the sourdough starter,  he continues with the making and development of the levain,  which is the small mix of starter,  fresh flour, and water that will be used to inoculate the final dough.  He then takes us through the mixing and development of the dough itself.   Along the way he devotes four very informative pages on gluten.  He is constantly fleshing out the entire process with interesting historical or practical information for us to consider.  When the dough has finally been baked he describes some signs on the loaf that are symptoms of particular qualities.  I won’t spoil your reading by describing the result of his first bread.  Get the book to find out!

True to the baking experience,  Pollan makes it clear that the baker must develop his own sense of timing for the particular situation.  He is merely giving some guidelines for the baker to use in crafting a bread that is being aimed for.

After making his first loaf using Chad Robertson’s recipe from “Tartine”,  Pollan decides to go for quality control by visiting the baker himself.    To be continued.

See previous post for Pt.1.

 

 

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